Greater Houston Weekly

Indika - Indian Cuisine with a Spicy Twist

By Marene Gustin, contributing writer

Two middle-aged women are sitting at the modern horseshoe bar inside the new Indika on the edge of Midtown.  Well-dressed and articulate, they are about as un-ethnic as you can get, yet they are trying some very cutting-edge Indian appetizers and loving them.  Across from them sits a lovely Asian girl sipping a Madras Mojito.  The clientele and the decor are like the food: eclectic.

Anita Jaisinghani's new Indika - recreated from her five-year stint in the Memorial area - is about as ethnic, and yet modern, as you can get.  The nationally recognized chef combines the favorite flavors of her homeland with fresh Texas produce and Gulf seafood in new and creative ways.  Sure, they still serve naan, warm from the oven, and the traditional spices of curry and saffron tickle the taste buds, but Jaisinghani's dishes are fresh, contemporary combinations.

"I learned traditional Indian cooking at home," the petite Jaisinghani says.  "But that is very different than what you eat in restaurants.  What I wanted was to use home cooking and then elevate it.  Not Americanize it, but modernize it."

She's done that and more.  From the perfect nuevo plating showcasing the picture-perfect dishes on streamlined white china to the tantalizing tastes revealed upon the first bite, you know this isn't your standard India joint.  Even the decor blends antique wooden pieces from Asia with minimalist striped chairs.  The space, which seats 124, is open and airy but broken down into seating sections from the main area to a private room, secluded booths and even a community table: great for single diners looking for conversation.  Yards of silk drape from the high saffron- and umber-colored walls, and embroidered pillows are scattered about, creating a homey atmosphere of elegance.  Jaisinghani purposely chose very modern, high-tech track lighting, a sort of counter balance to the antiques and silks.  The place looks like her food tastes.

Take the Tandoori Chicken Chaat ($8), a traditional street food in India of chicken, two types of chutney and yogurt mixed into a lettuce leaf.  Here it's been punched up with extra seasoning and pomegranate seeds and plated on chopped lettuce.  "People think I created something new," she says, "but I just took something old and presented it in a different way."  Like the Goat Brain Masala ($9).  "I grew up eating goat brain; I love it."

Less adventurous types will love the Mixed Seafood Biryani ($18) with coconut, mint and cilantro or the delicious bar bite Potato and Goat Cheese Cakes ($5).  Three good-sized cakes that melt in your mouth served with fresh-made chutney, both cilantro and tamarind types, is a perfect light dinner with a tall glass of Madras Mojito with fresh juices, rum and crushed mint.

Heartier appetites will find the grilled lamb a favorite along with the duck breast vindaloo or the slow-cooked braised veal short ribs.  At $20 the ribs are a meaty nod to Texas beef dressed up in coconut, ginger and lime.

For dessert Jaisinghani strays even farther from her roots.  She says most traditional Indian desserts are too heavy for her tastes, so she takes the flavors and recreates them in dishes like her Rose Cake ($6).  This pastry item combines very traditional ingredients such as pistachio and beetle nut in a non-traditional way.

Besides the creative concoctions like the Madras Mojito, Indika's has a full bar and a very eclectic wine list including several bottles from Grover Vineyards at the edge of Bangalore.  The staff is friendly and helpful when pairing wines and dishes.

Jaisinghani glides through the eatery greeting guests with hugs and handshakes, but she also spends a lot of time in the back, tinkering and updating the menu.  "I can't stay out of the kitchen," she says with a smile.  In fact, she's also writing a cookbook and getting ready to offer cooking classes in Indika's spacious, state-of-the-art kitchen.  Which sounds great to us, but we'll still want to eat her cooking at Indika.  Besides the better decor and service, even with her teaching we'll never rival her talent.

July 12 2006