My Table Review

2001's Best New Restaurants

RESTAURANT INDIKA, 12665 Memorial Dr. between Gessner & Sam Houston Parkway, 713-984-1725. Chef/owner Anita Jainsinghani's Indika may be the most remarkable newcomer of the year. The kitchen, ostensibly Indian, surely breaks new ground with its innovative take on a classic cuisine. We've never eaten anything so intellectualized and so delicious: Try salmon tikkas with pickled onions and coconut chutney, lamb two ways with cashew cardamom curry and fresh seafood biryani. $$